Madrid - Lima flight
This summer I was able to make a trip that I had been dreaming of for a long time come true. The destination was the Peruvian Andes, specifically the Cordillera Blanca.
In this post I am going to give you some information that I found interesting and helpful.
We landed in Lima in the afternoon and arranged to have a taxi booked to take us to the bus station. It is highly recommended not to take taxis you don't know at the airport as there are many cases of theft. Since we had so much luggage we decided it would be convenient to get out of there quickly, so we took a night bus with 180º reclining seats to Huaraz. It was worth it as it is a 9 hour journey and this way we didn't lose the night and were able to rest.
Preparing for the trip
We decided to bring equipment for all activities except a tent, which we rented when we arrived at the Andean Kingdom agency. This agency is one of the nerve centers, with a great mountain atmosphere and mountaineers who come and go all day long. It offers guide services for all levels, as well as equipment rental and transportation services. Its owner is an immense source of information and, if she has time in the frenetic pace of the high season, she offers her help with the best of smiles and a hug.
It is right in front of the Casa de Guías and is a place worth visiting to meet them, have a tea and look through the climbing guides they have in the reception.
From the top of Ishinca, 5,530 m asl
The Cordillera Blanca is named after the snow-capped mountains that crown it. It runs parallel to the Peruvian coast and is separated from it by the Cordillera Negra, named after the absence of snow in this part due to its proximity to the ocean.
Sport climbing in Hatun Machay, 4,200 m asl
A good time to visit is from the end of May to August. This coincides with winter, which, being in the southern hemisphere, is the opposite of Spain, but it is not a much colder time of year because it is a country very close to the Equator and there are no major temperature variations between the different seasons of the year. The most significant change in winter is the decrease in rainfall, which makes it the dry season, which makes it easier to carry out mountain activities. We planned our month-long trip from the last week of May to June, and the weather was very good.
This year 2024 has been characterized by being very dry in general, which has led to less snow and ice, and this has caused a multitude of landslides and a lot of instability in the terrain. Since there is no ice to bind the rock, the mountain collapses. Therefore, it is important not only to look at the weather at the moment, but to study the previous months and always ask the locals about the conditions of the mountain once we arrive at the place.
Huaraz Market
Our base camp is located in Huaraz. It is the provincial capital and the nerve center as far as mountaineering is concerned. It has the Casa de Guías, which is an office where you can go to ask for information about routes, the state of the mountain, reserve shelters, how to get around by public transport, etc.
In short, a first-hand information point for planning your activity. Likewise, in Peru there is a regulated and official training for mountain guides, with qualifications similar to those we have in Europe, which guarantee the professionalism of qualified mountain guides. For this reason, a multitude of agencies have proliferated that sell everything from trekking to more technical activities.
Huaraz is a city, which means you can get almost anything once you get there. It is also strategically located, as within an hour's radius you can reach a large number of quebradas (valleys). The most convenient way to get around is by taxi, although it is also the most expensive. There is also a system of collective transport (a kind of minibus-vans) which is interesting for some quebradas because of its low price.
Our main objective on the trip was to practice BASE jumping and climbing, and since we were advised to do some snow climbing, we were also prepared. Keep in mind that the constant in this area is altitude. Huaraz is already at 3,000 meters above sea level and almost all the valley bottoms are at 4,000 meters. Being a country in a tropical zone, the differences with Europe are considerable. The year we went, the snow did not start until above 5,000 meters (as I mentioned, it was a particularly dry year), a fact that must be taken into account when planning the routes and the equipment.
Summit of Ishinca snow-capped mountain, 5,530 m asl
Acclimatization is an important step to be able to enjoy it, and it can be done on snowy mountains that are technically easy to climb and on high-altitude treks. At the Guide House they can advise you for free and each one can organize it depending on the sporting project they have. Likewise, any agency offers very useful services for any project if necessary, from guided tours to transportation facilities, equipment rental, equipment porting, etc.
The atmosphere in Huaraz is amazing, a lively city populated by friendly people. Peruvian food is well known, but we had never tried it before. The truth is that we were delighted all month.
In Huaraz you can find many restaurants that offer a copious and delicious menu of the day for 2-3€. As for accommodation, there are many different types of accommodation available depending on your budget. We chose Casa Zarela on the recommendation of a friend. You can choose between shared or single rooms, with different rates. The most valuable thing about this accommodation, apart from being a beautiful place that offers free use of a kitchen, is its owner Zarela. It's like having a friend from your first day in Peru, as she helps you with everything and knows a lot about her area, which makes it easier for you to get around.
If you are looking for accommodation in the mountains, you can always set up your tent and you will also find many guarded Andean shelters where you can eat and sleep warmly. Please note that the entrance to the Huascarán National Park is paid, but it does not include all areas. Check its extension and whether it affects your activity.